Flooded Out

I suppose it's on the news at home, that this City of Smiles being evacuated as water pushes its way through from the Chao Praya River to the Gulf. But I think many people at home don't keep up on the news, especially worldwide (ahem, Joy!)--I know I didn't realize how ignorant I've been until I moved here. I love living in a city that is a Mecca for many cultures and the paper prints headlines from around the world. Somehow living here makes the entire world seem more accessible than it is in the Midwest.

(I must say the reporting on US news is a major FAIL here: On CNN, you have economic crisis in Greece, the devasting earthquake in Turkey, and then the case of Michael Jackson's doctor in the US. In the newspaper, you have a little more on the US--how about a Florida yoga instructor introducing "dog yoga" or the nude activists in San Francisco. I'm sure readers appreciate diversity in topics, but where's the news that matters from the US? Interesting what our country emulates for the rest of the world and what the world picks up on...)

Northern Thailand has been flooded for over 2 months now, from heavy rainfall for three months, and the water had been kept back for reasons of the different agricultural seasons--then the unexpected amounts of rain came. Over 20 of the 77 provinces in Thailand are flooded, under 1-2 meters of water. The Chao Praya River runs from the North of the country all the way down to the Gulf, coming right through Bangkok. Obviously, the water needs to run down the river to reach the sea. At this point, it's coming down at the same time of high tide on the sea--hence the high risk to Bangkok. Being the economic center of Thailand, and the business headquarters for most companies located in Asia, any water is a threat to the economy of Thailand and of Asia, and is also taking lives and livilihoods throughout the country.

The Prime Minister, YinLuck and the Governor, with all their advisors are trying to devise plans to funnel the water through the city with the least harm to the city center, which has been blocked off by walls. They are calculating when to open the dams and whether to dredge up the roads to get the water through more quickly.

Map of the Bangkok Metro Area. Shows flooding as of October 23. Blue is flooded--actually the pink is where we were on Wednesday with 2 meters of water. The light yellow and gold along the Chao Praya is where we are. Current estimates are 20 cm in parts of the city center, 50 cm where close to the river.

What are the people saying? The water will come--just let it out and get it done with. We expected it over 2 weeks ago, and the shelves at 7/11, Big C, Tesco/Lotus... have been EMPTY of food and water for that long. Now people are trying to buy more food and water with little success--besides the 1 million who have evacuated the city already, many of whom just up and left the country for a while.





The Thai people have this phrase, "Mai pen rai"--meaning, "no big deal", "no worries", "no problem"... It is imbedded in their culture and defines how anyone reacts to this disaster in particular. Being farang, Wednesday night we had contact with our house in New York, trying to take a decision of what our plan was for this predicted 50cm to 2 meters of water inevitably coming our way. The water is full of disease, sewage, crocodiles, eels, snakes... What were we to do? We have a 2nd floor, but we would also be 5 women in a small space. The decision was made to leave our house, leave our neighborhood and find a place to stay with our ex-pat friends. Heart's Home has a responsibility to our families for our well-being, despite our desire to stay with our friends and be with them in this disaster.

Wednesday night we went to the airport to pick up Natalie, our new sister of community from the US, beginning her mission here with us for 18 months. We all went, came home, got to sleep by 3am, woke up for prayer at 730--Nathalie was incredible, after traveling for 30 hours half way around the world, she made it through on 4 hours of sleep and helped move everything, spending her first day in Thailand leaving her house of mission. We spent the whole morning and early afternoon moving everything in the house to the 2nd floor--refrigerator, gas stove, dishes, food, toys: EVERYTHING. We had just spent 2 weeks doing work on our house, fixing rotten and termite eaten wood upstairs, fixing windows, and Wednesday was the last day of electrical work and painting. We have been moving all of our furniture multiple times--to put it mildly, we were all exhausted before Thursday began.

In disaster mode, personalities really come out. Eva had prepared 2 weeks ago, having brought a suitcase to a friend's house ahead of time, telling us the flood was coming. Thuy and I said, "mai pen rai! The flood won't come here!" Marie and Eva went a week ago to buy food and clean water for us if it came, as Thuy and I rolled our eyes at them for panicking--we'll be fine. No problem. If the water comes it comes. We can pee in a bucket and toss it out the window, we can eat rice for a few weeks, and play games by candlelight upstairs--it's an adventure. Why freak out?

To be honest, when I heard the Prime Minister declare on Tuesday night that the City of Bangkok WILL flood, it became a bit more real. Sister Regine started saying it's better if we leave our house. Then on Wednesday, we went about 45 minutes north of our house, still in the city of Bangkok, and saw the flood. Seeing the water, the people walking in the filthy, smelly water, and meeting our neighbor's sister and her family whose house is under 2 meters of water... That made it a bit more real as we returned home understanding better what was coming our way.



A crew going to help.





Marie and Paa Ot loading the truck with rice, milk,

water, and crackers for the families.



On Thursday, as we started packing up, I was in a bit of a panic mode (speaking of personalities coming out... my reaction took a 180). I called one friend who had already said I could call if we needed help, but she didn't answer. So I called another friend, who said, sorry, no, you can't come here, we're leaving the country. Then I called a 3rd friend who said yes. Then the 2nd friend called back and said yes. So I called the 3rd one and said no, and said yes to the 2nd friend. Then the 1st friend called back and said, Sorry, I was at church--of course you can stay! I'm expecting you! So I managed it all horribly, probably offended someone, tripped over my words and didn't know how to decide where to go...

I called my parents, leaving a message with Mom. Dad picked up and as I spoke, he said, "So, in all of this, you sound really cool about it. How do you really feel?" I was taken aback--I didn't know he could see through me so well! He helped me see how I really felt--exhausted. Drained. A bit scared.



I demanded from the girls--"We NEED a plan!" The city will shut down for 5 days, and we all go to different homes, but what if there is water next week and it stays for a month? Do we burden our friends for so long, as they have to feed us AND their own families when there's a shortage? What is the PLAN? We are supposed to be together, but if this water is on the street, it's not safe to walk in, how do we communicate? If there's no internet, no cell phone service, and no electricity? We need a PLAN!

They said, "Erika. There is no way to know. We can't have a plan."

I was sorely frustrated and adamant that it's a cultural difference--in the US, we would have a plan.



HA. (In reality it's much more a personality difference, I think--or a level of faith...)



Exhausted after eating a quick lunch of fried rice for the upteenth time this week, I called Ryan. I don't know how important others think it is to call ones boyfriend in time of emergency, but I felt a need to tell him. And God knows I am SO glad I did. He sent me positive vibes over the phone that helped me shake it all off and get through the rest of the day. He said, Hey, no worries, You'll be fine. Think about Lucille Ball and Ricky Ricardo--think of  the funny things Lucy would do in this situation. I laughed. Wow, my spirit is lightening and you're right, I"ll be fine. Thank God for that 15 minutes of joy and positive vibes coming through from this amazing man in my life. 


 



Marie in our room, looking at what to pack.



Finally, I fled from my house, taking with me what was only necessary--clothes for a couple days (not knowing if I need to leave home for a few days, weeks, or a month), my passport and papers, my camera and harddrive, my voice recorder with Ryan reading me "The Hobbit", my journal, a book, my Magnificat, and toiletries, and my pillow. As I looked around my room, I was almost searching for more--thinking I needed more. But that was all necessary.



Yesterday I was sitting at mass at Holy Redeemer with my sisters of community, and my Pakistani friends were sitting behind us. I was moved to tears after receiving Jesus, being so grateful for the gift of Fr. Daniel's "yes" to the priesthood, here as our spiritual guide and leader, gleaning strength from the graces of God... I began thinking of all my friends sitting behind me. What they have experienced in their flight from Pakistan, being persecuted by the Taliban, and how open and loving they are--they are the best friends I've ever had--open hearts, joyful, and always, always full of the peace of Christ. I thought of my friends at home in 70 Rai, staying, waiting, living life as if nothing is going to happen... I thought of Yaai Marie, one of the grandmothers we would visit who was handicapped and laid on the floor of her house. We found out she died on Tuesday. My first thought when I heard she died was, "Praise Jesus." She is in Heaven safe and sound. With the flood coming, she would have suffered and died in the water for sure. Jesus took her home in her sleep a few days before, allowing time for her family to give her a proper burial at the temple even before the flood.



Cars parked on the expressway to avoid the water.

I thought of my feelings and emotions and exhaustion from the past 2 weeks and from Thursday. I thought of this little, tiny glimpse I have now of what it is to flee for safety, having to be truly poor and leaving my friends and home. I have been praying for the gift of tears to soften my heart--it's been so long! And finally, they came last night at Mass--with a strange peace and joy that allowed me to feel the Love of Christ: for me. He cares for EVERY need! He thinks of it ALL, and His timing is impeccable.  In this time of waiting for the waters to hit, God is softening my heart, reminding me of His love as he romances me with His strength and providence...

 







Member of Paa Ot's family--staying in a warehouse with
1,800 people living in tents.
Their homes are under about 1.5 meters of water,
which is rising.
This location is now said to flood as well.

A Walk Through 70 Rai

In some ways our neighborhood in Klong Toey reminds me of a college town, or a large university campus. Every house is distinct, but the few commonalities unite the neighbors. The levels of poverty are vast and hard to distinguish--

Going to the bridge on the way to the bus stop. 

Yaaj Sateem just rebuilt her entire second floor--it's even got siding. Phaa Oot has 2 flat screen TVs in one room, and a TV in every other room of the house. Several neighbors have a computer with internet. Cell phones are no status symbol, as everyone has one--it just may be recycled, a hand me down, or new. Some people--most I think, have at least one motocy, but some have a car too. Over in Lok 1, two new homes were built, and just next door to one is a shack, falling apart. 

On the walk home through Lok 3. 

This was taken about 6 months ago--now it is completely covered in trash. This water sits underneath all of the homes here in Lok 1, 2, and 3. 

Why is it like a campus? The furniture, little there is, all mismatched, a lot is broken, but they still use it. Signs from political campaigns in June or from a store advertisement serve as awnings over the street or as a nice rain-shield to place on a motocy. The street littered with trash in some places looks like the remains from a college party the night before. The people, the men, walking around shirtless with their tattoos, smoking cigarettes or a joint, drinking an energy drink or two in the morning... some going to work, some hanging around doing nothing. Urinating on the side of the street is commonplace. Others, especially the kids, walk the soi, half dressed--and the babies may just be naked. People are always eating and trying to sell food--or lottery tickets. 

Some homes in Lok 3. 

The people don't go to "class" (unless still in school) but many have 2 or 3 jobs, and the ones who have kids either stay at home, or leave the kids with grandma or an aunt or uncle. The kids find more peace spending the day on the street, hanging out at a corner store, or playing games on the computer at a cyber cafe. They often run up and down the street, eating constantly, buying snacks the neighbors sell out of the their front door.

Everyone sells food, lottery tickets, clothes... something! Laundry is always  hanging outside, and trash and broken  pieces of anything litter the ground. 

Cats and dogs, all stray and mangy, sit in the sois, leaving their excrement as obstacles for pedestrians to overstep, or they loiter, waiting for some meritorious person to feed them--which any good Buddhist would do. (I just wish I had a shotgun some nights when they are in heat sounding like a dying baby).


Music and movies blare from the house next door every evening around 5:00--that's usually music for a few hours until they put in a movie. A lot of the neighbors are young--and most of the women are grandmothers at age 50 (or less). 


We had three French guys visit last week to play some music for the kids in our neighborhood--they have been traveling around Asia since August, playing music for kids in schools and neighborhoods--guitar, clarinet, and a sweet mobile piano. Jean, Mathieu, and Etienne (blog: www.bercemonde.com). We went to get a smoothie to share before they left and Mathieu asked me what the problem is here--what is the biggest cause of this poverty? 


In this neighborhood? 


It's hard to say what the poverty is here, in terms of some concrete reality, or lack. Maybe for some it's money--yes, for most. 
For a lot of the residents? It's a community. It's home. You don't leave your community easily--especially in a city of 10 million people. You have family, friends, routine, culture, jobs, a home... 

Pii Tiim and her grandson, Ket in their  home by the railroad tracks. 

I think, it's about the kind of education--and not the kind you get in schools, but by experiences in life. The kids who are living in a split home, seeing their parents take amphetamines and energy drinks, sniff glue, sleep around... this is what they learn. Other kids in the neighborhood see some good examples--one of our friends has a university level education and she and her husband both work. Truth is, a lot of people in this city are poor--for Thais, it is expensive to live in Bangkok. With an average income of 300 baht a day, you can't afford a lot. 


Drugs, teenage pregnancy, education... you could put a lot of words on it--but it's not just one thing. Nor does it have to be. So they are poor-er than me in the US. They are poor-er than a lot of people in the world... But really? It's not the poverty that's so bad. You live here and it's what you know... There are a lot of worse problems in life than poverty--it's just that being poor brings you closer to those problems. 

Some of the boys playing on the tracks.